但广告化并不天然等于价值创造。当所有商户都必须通过竞价才能被看到时，广告费便从增量工具演化为入场券。单个商户的理性选择，是继续加价以维持原有订单量；但从整体看，供给侧为此付出的总成本却在不断上升，而需求并未同步扩大。平台收入提高，但供给侧整体并未获得更多有效需求，反而陷入内耗式竞价。这种结构下，广告化更像是将抽佣换了一种更隐蔽的形态，甚至加剧了零和博弈。
Industrial production of kanten (the Japanese name for agar, which translates as “cold weather” or “frozen sky”) began in Japan in the mid-19th century by natural freeze drying, a technique that simultaneously dehydrates and purifies the agar. Seaweed is first washed and boiled to extract the agar, after which the solution is filtered and placed in boxes or trays at room temperature to congeal. The jelly is then cut into slabs called namaten, which can be further processed into noodle-like strips by pushing the slabs through a press. These noodles are finally spread out in layers onto reed mats and exposed to the sun and freezing temperatures for several weeks to yield purified agar. Although this traditional way of producing kanten is disappearing, even today’s industrial-scale manufacturing of agar relies on repeated cycles of boiling, freezing, and thawing.
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Image Credit: Sausly. Federica Mercuriello.
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